Track Solutions

Around the beginning of april this year, I started looking for solutions to the track problems, detailed in the post "The Layout".The biggest one was replacing the PIKO switches, and I started looking around for a switch with the same dimensions. Web searches weren't successful, as different retailers used all kinds of different radiuses and the details of switches weren't clearly stated. I then turned to the program used for creating the original layout plan, called 3rd Planit, who had an extensive library of track items. So with the details of my PIKO switch on one side, I started comparing the different switches. After a while I found that Tillig produced a switch that had exactly the same dimensions I was looking for. Further research showed that this company was considered by many the producer of the most realistic model track around - the code .83 - named so after the height of the rail. So finally I would be able to change the old U profile with a normal "I" one, as on the real railroads. They also produced a slow-motion motor for turning the switches - which again adds realism. Tillig goes even further as to produce roadbed for their track, with already made holes for the ties of the track to fit in - so the final product looks as it's supposed to - unlike my PIKO track that was just layed on top of my flat ballast. The sawdust for my initial roadbed also doesn't scale so good as to simulate crushed stones normally used on the railroads - while the Tillig one looks right at home. But since pictures on different websites weren't enough, I made a visit to a local dealer to see the product first-hand. It was looking good, so I bought a small piece of curved track, with the corresponding roadbed, for further studies.
The new Lenz loco, just as the cleaning car, work just fine on this type of track, however most of the old PIKO rolling stock, because of the larger dimensions of the wheel flanges used back then, tends to lightly brush the ties as they go along. I could see 2 methods for fixing this - buy new wheel sets for the cars, and for the locos, where available, or use a grinder to reduce the diameter of the flanges. No solution was chosen at the time (actually I haven't made a decision to this day) but I studied further the track produced by Tillig, and found that they produced different models of curved switches, something I could only dream of with the PIKO straight switches I had. The decision was finally made that all track had to be changed.