Tips and Progress

Finally decided to use diluted glue when applying the earth plaster formulas - the trouble was that for the very first layer applied on the wet (previously dried) plaster cloth, after the time needed to dry, most of it would simply come off - most likely as a result of the underlying plaster cloth robing the moisture from the small plaster particles in the earth formula. So in order to "help" the reaction of these small plaster particles with the mist airbrushed, I'm switching from simply water to white glue (1 part glue to 2 parts water). However thinking a bit further makes me realize that when vegetation get applied in the end, the underlying soil will be fixed anyway by the diluted Noch glue used specifically for the static fibers - guess my changed procedure will just help in those barren patches of land, left between vegetation.

Regarding the Noch glue used for the static grass, I've changed the ratio to 1:2 (Noch glue : water). This is done in order to reduce the visible change in color after the glue dries versus the initial color of the vegetation. (Kept reading a small note with the new ratio for some months now, so I decide it's finally time to write it here too).

The right corner that has seen much work last December now has some small rocks and dead, fallen trunks applied (using normal glue - white glue didn't work !). Since the first photo was taken, patches of various grass were set. As for the second photo, the lids can be clearly seen, still awaiting to dry. In the foreground, the Brawa platform is glued in place to the 4 mm supports (which took way to long to cut using hot wire). Also visible is the remaining infrared detector pair that had to be installed on the D segment, right before things were fixed with some plaster.

Brawa Platform

On the D segment, it's planned for a platform to show up. First photo shows the place - on the right of the track. I've bought one a while back, but as these things come with the natural plastic gloss, processing was in order. First, the grey parts were filed, so they wouldn't be smooth - this to confer some grip for the upcoming airbrush coats, and for some surface variety on the drybrushing step.For the bricks, 2 layers were used, in the formulas presented below:

First layer

 0,6 ml XF-7 (Flat Red)

 0,25 ml XF-64 (Red Brown)

 0,8 ml X-20A (Thinner)

Second layer

 0,3 ml XF-7

 0,05 ml red brown

 ? ml X-20A (Thinner) (quantity was most likely 0,4)

After this, the mortar lines inside the bricks were done, using some cloth soaked with Woodland Scenics Concrete. This was gently wiped right after with some wet cloth, to remove the color from the bricks themselves.

The rest of the grey stones were sprayed in a combination of XF-12 (J.N. Grey) and XF-79 (Linoleum Deck Brown) - unfortunately I don't have the exact formula anymore - judging by the end result however, a small amount of brown was used.

Next, drybrushing was done, on both bricks and stones, with various Woodland Scenics colors (Burnt Umber, Raw Umber). The rough edges on the grey stones were highlighted using WS Concrete. The final assembled piece looks pretty good for now.

New Rock Painting Formula

Some time ago I've painted the 3 rocks on the corner of the LR segment, visible on the aerial shot on the bottom right. Since then earth has been added, along with some ballast (however this is not yet glued). Going through my small notes I've found the recipe for the 3 rocks, which I'm pasting below:

- 1 wash of WS Yellow Ochre (1:4 color:water), specifically on the sharp edges

- 1 wash of WS Burnt Umber (1:4), on the rest of the surfaces

- 1 wash of WS Black (1:16)

- 1 wash of WS Black (1:16)

- 1 wash of Burnt Umber (1:4)

- 1 wash Black (1:8)

Obviously some steps can be consolidated, however this was the initial method used. Pictures follow - click for a higher resolution pic.

The Aerial Shot

  Never really got round to actually uploading the plan of the layout, so today I've taken 2 photos using a tripod, high enough so that the Nikon was touching the ceiling. Next the 2 photos were merged as seen here.

  The progress can be clearly seen on this one - only that in the last few hours the white area to the right was covered in earth, yet this needs to be redone in certain places, since the plaster didn't quite stick.

Extensive Landscaping Work

Since Woodland Scenics C1203 plaster cloth finally arrived, work could resume on the missing terrain. What better way to see some progress than by extending the landscape to the right of the C(ross) segment (that would be the line partially covered by masking tape, and the 2 old flat PIKO cars at the end). This also involved finding a way to blend the right tunnel portal as well. For the portal, I took a look here to see how it should deal with abrupt terrain, and decided to go, just as the picture shows, with a wall next to the portal itself. Having made a mock-up of the whole area, a flow-chart diagram was created (second photo, the text is in my native language- romanian) so I'd know which tasks should be done, in what order, and what are those that could be done in parallel.

First thing was to solder together the 2 wires between segments P(re)-T(unnel) and S(mall) R(amp) - visible in the 3rd photo. Next, an infrared pair had to be installed on the remaining end of the C segment (where the cars are in the first photo), meaning that a place would have to be found for the MRD board (these boards were first introduced to this layout here).As was done previously, a hole was dug in the foam baseboard, 2 spacers - 5 mm long - were cut from the insulation material provided with the emitters/detectors and the corresponding holes drilled in the base wooden board. The 3rd photo shows the MRD along with the handmade spacers and the supplied screws right above it.

For the walls needed next to the portal, I used what I had left from the Noch retaining wall (seen first here) and glued the pieces together, two by two. Once these were glued, I looked at the way I painted the left tunnel portal, and the retaining wall placed there. Then I came up across an article from Chris Nevard, where the method I initially used, and quite popular around the web - picking up individual bricks in an uniform color - is not seen in a good light. So this time I went for multiple layers of drybrushing, using the same colors as before - Stone Gray, Raw Umber, Slate Gray and Concrete (all from Woodland Scenics). The result looks more natural, however I'm curious how it'll look when I'll take some photos of the finished area.

  Most of the work however went into cutting and gluing the foam walls that would support the plaster cloth. The holes for the wires will have to be accessible after all is done, so the "mobile covers" must be employed again. The infrared pair was secured in place using plaster, and a check was done to make sure that the gaps between cars don't trigger false readings.

  A couple of rocks were fixed in place using plaster and the same set of washes used - 1:4 Yellow Ochre, 1:4 Burnt Umber, 1:16 Black (parts of paint : parts water).
  As of now, things are looking as shown in the last photo. Click for a bigger view.

Right Corner

The Noch tunnel lining has been extended, so that the white foam can be covered due to issues examined before. This seen here is the one covering the IR detector (for which the hole seen in the bottom left exits). The small trimming in the upper left corner is due to one of the piers of the tunnel overhead system.

At the same time that the lining was glued in place, the right corner was prepared for the plaster cloth.The one I had left fitted exactly for the 2 layers needed, and now I'm awaiting a shipment containing 3 rolls (Woodland Scenics C1203).

Avoiding IR Reflections

Trying to fix the infrared detectors on one end of the tunnel segment, I've ran into an issue with the detection - even though the infrared path should be blocked, the receiver was still sensing the radiation. However reminding my past hard times I knew it must be some sort of reflection due to the white foam around the receiver. Just using a black card solved it completely, and now all is well.

All that needs to be done now is for the emitter and receiver to be fixed using some plaster, and the black card replaced with special Noch tunnel lining.