Soon after fixing the problem described
here, I was worried that the same issue happened to one of the switches in the PT pair (M31), which experienced the same symptoms of poor electrical connectivity when part of the locomotive wheels were in the frog. Turns out it was only the Tillig 86112's brown wire that came loose from its connection with one of the wires providing power. When this happens, the voltage measured between any point of the frog and its opposing rail will be at about 6-7 Volts.
With this out of the way, I turned my attention to the switch in front of the tunnel, which started making a powerful noise for quite some time now. Opening the switch, cleaning it with the airbrush (blowing just air) and removing part of the components indicated that the motor was not at fault, and the cause of the noise was actually a broken cog - the hairline crack is visible in the first photo - not something that bad, but big enough to make the gap between those 2 teeth generate a considerable noise when being driven by the motor's worm drive. The whole component is present in figure 2. Luckily some time ago I've ordered a spare 86112, so the fastest way to fix the problem was simply switching the whole rod that contained the broken cog. Comparing the 2 switches (photo 3) showed no visible difference in this, but contrary to my memory, it's not just the color that was different among the first switch drives I bought and the subsequent ones - actually the motor itself is changed, and comparing the sounds one can immediately notice that the new ones are far more quieter. After everything was reassembled on the old drive and small amounts of silicone grease applied, I've placed the old rod and the components of the new drive (that interact with the rod) in one of those dynamic-compartment types of small plastic boxes, one of which I bought today.
With this out of the way, I turned my attention to the switch in front of the tunnel, which started making a powerful noise for quite some time now. Opening the switch, cleaning it with the airbrush (blowing just air) and removing part of the components indicated that the motor was not at fault, and the cause of the noise was actually a broken cog - the hairline crack is visible in the first photo - not something that bad, but big enough to make the gap between those 2 teeth generate a considerable noise when being driven by the motor's worm drive. The whole component is present in figure 2. Luckily some time ago I've ordered a spare 86112, so the fastest way to fix the problem was simply switching the whole rod that contained the broken cog. Comparing the 2 switches (photo 3) showed no visible difference in this, but contrary to my memory, it's not just the color that was different among the first switch drives I bought and the subsequent ones - actually the motor itself is changed, and comparing the sounds one can immediately notice that the new ones are far more quieter. After everything was reassembled on the old drive and small amounts of silicone grease applied, I've placed the old rod and the components of the new drive (that interact with the rod) in one of those dynamic-compartment types of small plastic boxes, one of which I bought today.
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