Tips and Progress

Finally decided to use diluted glue when applying the earth plaster formulas - the trouble was that for the very first layer applied on the wet (previously dried) plaster cloth, after the time needed to dry, most of it would simply come off - most likely as a result of the underlying plaster cloth robing the moisture from the small plaster particles in the earth formula. So in order to "help" the reaction of these small plaster particles with the mist airbrushed, I'm switching from simply water to white glue (1 part glue to 2 parts water). However thinking a bit further makes me realize that when vegetation get applied in the end, the underlying soil will be fixed anyway by the diluted Noch glue used specifically for the static fibers - guess my changed procedure will just help in those barren patches of land, left between vegetation.

Regarding the Noch glue used for the static grass, I've changed the ratio to 1:2 (Noch glue : water). This is done in order to reduce the visible change in color after the glue dries versus the initial color of the vegetation. (Kept reading a small note with the new ratio for some months now, so I decide it's finally time to write it here too).

The right corner that has seen much work last December now has some small rocks and dead, fallen trunks applied (using normal glue - white glue didn't work !). Since the first photo was taken, patches of various grass were set. As for the second photo, the lids can be clearly seen, still awaiting to dry. In the foreground, the Brawa platform is glued in place to the 4 mm supports (which took way to long to cut using hot wire). Also visible is the remaining infrared detector pair that had to be installed on the D segment, right before things were fixed with some plaster.

Brawa Platform

On the D segment, it's planned for a platform to show up. First photo shows the place - on the right of the track. I've bought one a while back, but as these things come with the natural plastic gloss, processing was in order. First, the grey parts were filed, so they wouldn't be smooth - this to confer some grip for the upcoming airbrush coats, and for some surface variety on the drybrushing step.For the bricks, 2 layers were used, in the formulas presented below:

First layer

 0,6 ml XF-7 (Flat Red)

 0,25 ml XF-64 (Red Brown)

 0,8 ml X-20A (Thinner)

Second layer

 0,3 ml XF-7

 0,05 ml red brown

 ? ml X-20A (Thinner) (quantity was most likely 0,4)

After this, the mortar lines inside the bricks were done, using some cloth soaked with Woodland Scenics Concrete. This was gently wiped right after with some wet cloth, to remove the color from the bricks themselves.

The rest of the grey stones were sprayed in a combination of XF-12 (J.N. Grey) and XF-79 (Linoleum Deck Brown) - unfortunately I don't have the exact formula anymore - judging by the end result however, a small amount of brown was used.

Next, drybrushing was done, on both bricks and stones, with various Woodland Scenics colors (Burnt Umber, Raw Umber). The rough edges on the grey stones were highlighted using WS Concrete. The final assembled piece looks pretty good for now.

New Rock Painting Formula

Some time ago I've painted the 3 rocks on the corner of the LR segment, visible on the aerial shot on the bottom right. Since then earth has been added, along with some ballast (however this is not yet glued). Going through my small notes I've found the recipe for the 3 rocks, which I'm pasting below:

- 1 wash of WS Yellow Ochre (1:4 color:water), specifically on the sharp edges

- 1 wash of WS Burnt Umber (1:4), on the rest of the surfaces

- 1 wash of WS Black (1:16)

- 1 wash of WS Black (1:16)

- 1 wash of Burnt Umber (1:4)

- 1 wash Black (1:8)

Obviously some steps can be consolidated, however this was the initial method used. Pictures follow - click for a higher resolution pic.