Finally fixed some track ! And not with temporary pins, like everything done so far, but with glue. Trouble was, after the removal of the old ballast foam pieces from the SR segment, the ramp that was left behind wasn't very smooth, presenting all sorts of little dimples because of the glue that sticked to one side or the other (next time I'll use some of the magic ingredient i learned about recently - namely rubbing alcohol - before starting to dismantle old glued stuff). Roughly cleaning both the ballast pieces and the ramp didn't solve the problem entirely, because when testing to see how things would fit, the track was uneven - lower where the little dimples were and higher where little bits of old glue were left - instead of a smooth continuous climbing piece of track. So I thought about glueing the track w
ith some sort of a distributed weight, like a train, so the resulting track would be right, while the uneven portions of ballast / ramp would be taken care of the glue. And since plain cars were too light, I pulled out enough locomotives to fix the current piece - 1 meter of Tillig track. www.lancemindheim/track_laying.htm provides very helpful hints about track laying. Their advice is to use a thin line of glue in the center of the line, before fixing the track to allow the glue to dry (honestly my thought was to paint area right beneath the track with glue - how much wasted glue would that have been). So after applying some glue on the ballast pieces, i fixed these with 1 pin per piece, then "drew" the white glue line on top of that. Next the track (that already had feeders installed on both ends) was layed, and this too temporarily fixed with pins, making sure there are no kinks or changes in the curve's radius. I cleaned the glue below the edge of the top end of the track, since I realized that without the next piece of track, i will most likely end up with a kink right at the junction. And since the Moment adhesive stated "express", i quickly added the locos on top and left it to dry overnight (the locos, from left to right: BR110, BR
120, another BR110 - all 3 described in an earlier post and 2 BR 211 electric locos; none has the right wheels to run on the Tillig code 83 track). In the end I made sure the track is banked on all its length (since discoveries like bent ramp in the wrong direction are of course made right when the glue is being applied) - visible in the second photo as the red loco leans towards the inside of the curve. And speaking of things that won't fit, the plan for the SR segment, when placed over the constructed ramp, was a couple of centimeters to the left. And since the current plan is based on the old one, also drew in 3rd PlanIt, I can only suspect that the old initial printed plan wasn't truly 1:1, since this happened the first time I printed the actual plan, but luckly I measured the distance between the grid lines, only to find out the difference was more that 1 cm for every 20 cm (and then went ahead and reprinted everything on a better printer). Or somehow the original SR ramp wasn't correctly installed according to plan - anyway a better easement was possible using the extra few centimeters.
Right now about 3 weeks of vacation lie ahead, so the Paasche VL 1007 airbrush got a thourough cleaning, and the layout will get a rest. Last 2 photos show the Lenz BR 66 and the double decker car testing the now glued segment of track.
ith some sort of a distributed weight, like a train, so the resulting track would be right, while the uneven portions of ballast / ramp would be taken care of the glue. And since plain cars were too light, I pulled out enough locomotives to fix the current piece - 1 meter of Tillig track. www.lancemindheim/track_laying.htm provides very helpful hints about track laying. Their advice is to use a thin line of glue in the center of the line, before fixing the track to allow the glue to dry (honestly my thought was to paint area right beneath the track with glue - how much wasted glue would that have been). So after applying some glue on the ballast pieces, i fixed these with 1 pin per piece, then "drew" the white glue line on top of that. Next the track (that already had feeders installed on both ends) was layed, and this too temporarily fixed with pins, making sure there are no kinks or changes in the curve's radius. I cleaned the glue below the edge of the top end of the track, since I realized that without the next piece of track, i will most likely end up with a kink right at the junction. And since the Moment adhesive stated "express", i quickly added the locos on top and left it to dry overnight (the locos, from left to right: BR110, BR
120, another BR110 - all 3 described in an earlier post and 2 BR 211 electric locos; none has the right wheels to run on the Tillig code 83 track). In the end I made sure the track is banked on all its length (since discoveries like bent ramp in the wrong direction are of course made right when the glue is being applied) - visible in the second photo as the red loco leans towards the inside of the curve. And speaking of things that won't fit, the plan for the SR segment, when placed over the constructed ramp, was a couple of centimeters to the left. And since the current plan is based on the old one, also drew in 3rd PlanIt, I can only suspect that the old initial printed plan wasn't truly 1:1, since this happened the first time I printed the actual plan, but luckly I measured the distance between the grid lines, only to find out the difference was more that 1 cm for every 20 cm (and then went ahead and reprinted everything on a better printer). Or somehow the original SR ramp wasn't correctly installed according to plan - anyway a better easement was possible using the extra few centimeters.Right now about 3 weeks of vacation lie ahead, so the Paasche VL 1007 airbrush got a thourough cleaning, and the layout will get a rest. Last 2 photos show the Lenz BR 66 and the double decker car testing the now glued segment of track.
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